Go to the people,
live among them, love them.
Start with what they know,

build on what they have.
But of the best leaders,
when their task is accomplished
and the work is done,
The people all remark
'we have done it ourselves'.

Now THAT is community development...


(words that have stayed with me since I first visited and worked in India over 6 years ago, written by the Rurual Unit for Health and Social Affairs Hospital, Tamil Nadu, India).







Friday, February 26, 2010

So ... its been a week that feels like a life time.
I met a couple of other solo travellers, Meg from Canada and David (ofcourse he's already Davo) from Scotland. I invite them to join me to visit a temple in the morning, we meet for breakfast early and after a VERY round-about way to get to this quite close temple, we arrive. Meg and I are quite unfortunately busting for the toilet .. we are directed to a public toilet (I already know what I'm in for here so I brace myself .. roll up my pants to mid-calve, wrap my scarf around my mouth and nose for some smell reduction and get in the 'zone'). I start to gag the moment I enter the urinal .. these are drop toilets that have NEVER been cleaned .. the smell is not ideal. I pull down my rolled up pants and in the split second I realise that my passport is tucked safely in my underwear, its too late .. my passport lands squarely on the top of the squat toilet. I look at it with tears streaming down my face from the gaggin .. pick it up .. tuck it inside my bra and almost crack a smile... how fucking typical. I exit the toilet, gaggin profusely, douse my passport in anti-bacterial lotion, and my hands and tuck it safely back into my undies. We make our way to the temple ... this is by far THE MOST chaotic temple Ive ever been to (and Ive been to about 100 over my travels). We take off our shoes, as required, and take some flowers to give to the goddess. We entre the absolutely PACKED temple, peolpe crazy to see the goddess, to give her fruits, flowers, money. We are spotted by a holy man who shows us about .. takes us to the holy swimming pool (pic attached) where we have to walk, still barefooted, through raw sewerage and all the other little surprises you come across on the alley ways of India. Then, just behind the pool, we witness a flock of goats being beheaded for sacrifice. A HUGE couldren of goats blood being splashed about .. all the while IM BARE FOOT as required when visiting a temple. Very, very unimpressed! That same day, I "led the way" again to a sari shop where a new friend Meg wanted to purchase her first sari .. I took us unexpectadly through and ally way with hundreds of small whicker cages STUFFED of chickens, pigs, ducks and small goats all VERY barely alive .. the smell was overwhelming to say the least. The also vegetarian Meg ploughes on ahead, muttering profanity, me coming up the rear, covering my mouth with my scarf for some remote sensory solice, tears streeeaaaming down my face from the uncontrolable gaggin. Just as we walk the approx 50 metre stretch of animals stuffed into cages and the HUGE amount of fecal matter that comes with it .. I am about to take my first breath when I see up ahead a 8 metre long stretch of men's open urinals .. with around 12 men peeing against it ... its too much and I have a little heave. Meg, Im sorry for leading you to two rather un-vegan friendly locations today! I dare say we wont be forgetting each other in a hurry!
I have made friends with 2 beautiful women (in picture) who live on the street just outside my hotel, they stop me excitedly in the mornings yelling "sista sista" ... they remind me powerfully what good people are. The younger one insists on doing my henna, this the way she makes money, but refused to let me pay her .. she touches my chest and says "good heart, for you no charge, I think you special" .. I buy us a tea and sit with them for a couple hours. She asks me to please mail my mother and tell her that I have 2 new friends in India. Mum ..... I have 2 new friends in India who touch my feet as a sign of respect ... Its an honour to be here. I know I am lucky.

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Lots and lots of tea ...

My first entry … I am in Kolkata, a large-ish city in the north east of India.

It has been an interesting couple of days … started in a very flash hotel, the Peerless Inn, which I only booked in to for its airport pick up. My concern about the onslaught of Indian men trying to get me into his taxi at the airport proved enough for me to book into this 4* hotel .. and right I was! What a relief to see, among about 100 men all yelling at me to get into their ‘cheapest and bestest taxi in Kolkata”, my name printed up on a little sign from my hotel “Madam Frook Shearir” .. I assumed that was me and headed his way. “Miss Frook? You are here without a husband” he enquires as his first question .. how do I best reply?? That I don’t believe in marriage? That I am not allowed to marry women??!! Instead I go with it and say “yes my husband is very good to let me travel … " hahaha.

I straight away remember so much that I love and also hate about India… there are no women on the streets at night, streets littered with people living on the footpaths, children hunting through piles of rubbish for treasures, the smell of 2 stroke mixed with Jasmine and sandlewood, cows being given right of way over all other vehicles, including police cars, fire trucks and the army .. I love that!

Ive been out to a beautiful flower market and took some great shots of a new baby … his proud father came out of his shack when he saw me coming and put his new son in my arms stating “new baby, please take his photo”, I asked him if he’d like me to bring the photos to him for his house, he says that he just wants me to take the photo for my memory of the most special baby in India. I think I’ll bring them a copy anyway. So gorgeous (ill attach photos).

Anyway, I am happy today after purchasing a couple salwa suits (the long dresses over pants) and having them tailored for me today because “madam you are very curvaceous and I am thinking it is better for you to have tailored” … subtle. I was told today that I looked like a white bollywood star and that I should wear a sari so that my hips which are ready for babies are showing more. To all my big girl friends … move to India.

So .. I’ve relocated to a more reasonably priced hotel still in Kolkata, the Intercontinental VIP Hotel, and I’m planning my next stop .. to Darjeeling – A small town draped over a steep mountain range surrounded by tea plantations .. you can see the Himalayan ranges from here and even have a view of Mt Everest in Nepal! I plan on doing a short Ashram here to clear my head and have a nice detox. From there … we’ll see!

Ive had my hands painted in henna from gypsy women, Ive seen a new baby being born on the street, Ive drank more tea in the past 3 days than even my Nan could cope with and Ive met some prettty cool travellers too.

Learning to slow down .. not write lists of things I need to do and forgetting what day it is has come easily.

Namaste folks !